Physical Beauty

PHYSICAL BEAUTY
HOW TO DEVELOP AND PRESERVE IT
By
FLORENCE COURTENAY

CONTENTS
I.What Is Physical Beauty?
II. How to Make and Keep the Figure Beautiful
-Diet
- Exercise
III. Beauty of Skin
IV. The Features
-The Eyes
- The Nose
- Mouth & Teeth
- The Ears
- The Lips
- The Breath
- The Chin
V. The Hair
VI.The Hands
VII.The Feet
VIII.Beauty and Clothes
IX.The Plastic Surgeon as a Beautifier
X.Beauty During Maternity
XI.Special Hints for Throat and Bust Development

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What is Physical Beauty?

CHAPTER I

WHAT IS PHYSICAL BEAUTY?

FEMININE physical beauty is recognized by all humankind.
Yet it has no absolutely fixed standard.
The savage sees as beauties contours and shapes which to us are hideous and distorted.
Semi-civilized man is apt to regard fat and weight as the chief beauty factors. Even civilized man varies in his individual estimates. Those accepted charms of form, face and figure, however, which appeal most to the majority of individuals, may be said to be the nearest approach to an exact standard of beauty we have.
Proportion, color, delicacy, type, symmetry, the flash of the eye, the sweetness of the smile, and a thousand other factors contribute to make a woman beautiful. Every woman has her special individual beauties; some women possess a number in combination. A lovely natural complexion, delicately-shaped hands, shapely feet and ankles, glorious hair, a noble and alluring figure, all lay a duty upon their possessors—the duty of care and preservation. For beauty, physical as well as mental and moral, is a virtue. It is as essential to humanity as loyalty and truth. It is, or should be, the truth of the physical feminine being, expressed in its most
perfect terms.

PHYSICAL BEAUTY

IDEALS OF FORM AND FACE

Whether you have the beauty of the blonde or the beauty of the brunette, the beauty of light or the beauty of darkness, a duty is laid upon you within the scope of your own type. In form we accept, as a general thing, the ancient Greek ideal of feminine beauty, subject to modern modifications. That is, we accept the proportions of the
Venus de Medici as being nearest the modern idea of physical perfection. We reject those of the Venus de Milo as too large, too heavy for modern comparison.

THE IDEAL FORM

There is more or less variation between the proportions of the Venus de Medici and those of the average young woman of to-day.



WHAT IS PHYSICAL BEAUTY?

Do not be disturbed if these measurements do not correspond to your own ideal. They are only approximate; suggestive. Your figure taken as a whole may be admirable, yet vary in detail proportion. And such variations may harmonize and make for charm. These tables, however, offer a practical standard for comparison. They will help
show where you need development. Woman's face and form are the most exquisite
of all that has been created. They combine all the charms of color, harmony, grace, refinement and magnetism. And they reflect the higher attributes of mind and soul. Even the deformed and disfigured may cultivate physical beauty to some degree. Make the most of each and every charm you, individually, may possess. Such is the gospel
of this book. If its teachings be followed, power—beauty's choicest secret—will be your reward.

DEFINITE BEAUTIES OF SHAPE AND FEATURE

Black hair and a snowy complexion, with a proportionate head and forehead, the hair crisp and plentiful, with evenly penciled eyebrows, give a fine type. Jealousy and a quick temper are indicated where the eyebrows meet. They should be well divided, taper evenly and broaden more in the middle. Too small an ear denotes avarice. The
ear should not be too prominent, though, and delicate in outline. Cheek bones should be neither too far apart nor so prominent as to attract attention,
A straight nose of moderate size is the most desirable. A large but shapely nose, however, is to be preferred to a small shapeless one. Too small a nose means a vacillating disposition. The mouth should be of medium largeness, rosy and flexible, and with nether and upper lips of equal size, neither too thin, nor yet too full. Sound, white, medium-sized teeth and a firm, agreeably
rounded chin, its lower outline showing determination, are the best. A long neck, curving gracefully at the nape, enlarging as it descends toward the shoulders, and seeming whiter and clearer in outline as it approaches the bosom, is a standard.
White, firm shoulders, moderate in breadth, with a collar bone well-covered with flesh, a bosom transparently white, and round, firm, well-modeled
breasts of medium size cannot be improved upon. To be preferred are firm, gracefully curved and rounded arms, elbows well covered with adipose tissue, and dimpled, hands which do not join the arms too abruptly; as well as well-fleshed, yet slender wrists, which do not display the wrist bones prominently. The best fingers are those proportionate to the length of the palm, soft and tapering toward the nails, the latter faintly pink and almond-shaped, their length conforming to the length of the finger. The ideal waist is one not contracted by too tight a corset. The proper measure for the ideal waist is twice the size of the neck. The hips should be broader than the shoulders. They should grow rounder and narrower as they descend. The legs should be long and straight. Length and straightness are especially desirable from hips to knees, for grace and ease of appearance when
walking. A dimple on the knee is an added charm. Both knees should be plump, with a soft and white skin. The feet should be proportionate to the remainder of the body, firm, white and elastic.

The Golden Blonde, or the Flaxen-Haired Blonde, with a clear, white complexion and blue or hazel eyes, is a choice type of feminine beauty.
The Ruddy or Auburn Blonde, with dark or gray eyes is another.
The Florid Brunette is still another especially lovely type. Clear gray eyes which
emotion turns almost black are probably the most magnetic. They are at their best when accompanied by a clear complexion and dark, wavy hair. Alithe, well-rounded form, graceful, yet not so plump as to be called voluptuous, deserves all admiration—
and usually obtains it.

BEAUTY AND HEALTH

Beauty and health go hand in hand. Your skin, your hair, your figure, if not healthy, rob your loveliest features of their charm. Make health the cornerstone of an intelligent study and cultivation of every iota of beauty which you have. Physical-beauty, in the best sense, means well-rounded physical development on a health basis. On this basis cultivate your especial physical advantages. If you
have a perfectly shaped foot and ankle, then "put your best foot forward" in this respect. If beauty be truly "skin-deep," then all the more are skin and complexion worth caring for. If you have naturally heavy or beautifully tinted hair, then make your hair your "crowning glory."


PHYSICAL BEAUTY

There is a certain charm due to disease. But it should be remembered that it is not a normal one. It is more apt to call forth pity than love. Charm should mean natural attraction. Though there is a beauty in the sudden, hectic flush of the consumptive, it is the morbid beauty of death. It can wake only sorrow, and does not attract as does the soft, rosy blush of health.

BEAUTY BEFORE AND AFTER MARRIAGE

Before marriage all girls usually make the most of their physical charms. Beauty is woman's age-old and legitimate lure to attract a life companion of the other sex. Nature helps the young girl with the gift of youth, and as a rule she is willing to
aid Nature in making the most of it. But many a young woman, once married, grows careless about the care of the hair, hands, skin and figure. She neglects her person and her clothes, and tends to become a slovenly household drudge. Now physical beauty is a definite part of the feminine sex appeal.* And a happy marriage depends largely on a normal and happy sex appeal on the part of the woman, and corresponding sex interest on the part of the man. In neglecting your own physical charm, you are encouraging lack of interest in your husband. A husband may for some time not notice
the change. Sooner or later, however, meeting other women, he will make comparisons. He will suddenly realize that his wife no longer appears

* See: "Sex: Avoided Subjects Discussed in Plain English,"
in this series.


WHAT IS PHYSICAL BEAUTY?

young and beautiful as when first he married her. And he may turn to some other woman for the charm his wife no longer supplies. The intelligent woman gives some time each day to the "keeping up" of her quota of personal charms. Youth and beauty are largely a matter of good mental and physical condition. Every woman should study how to keep her youth and beauty. Try to improve upon what Nature has given you!
Fill in and round out the omissions of which she may have been guilty! This is not alone your right, it is your duty. It is commendable, not a matter for apology. Be beautiful in middle life. You may even be beautiful in old age. Hold your husband's affection and admiration. "Beauty Culture" is a good and legitimate thing if not over-done, and natural charm may with perfect propriety be enhanced or placed in relief. Every woman should have a knowledge of the practical facts which make for her physical beauty. It is to supply these facts that this little volume has
been written

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Exercise

EXERCISE

Diet is unquestionably the first essential in restoring a physical beauty of form which has de-generated, running either to obesity or overthinness. Exercise is the great maintainer of physical beauty in woman. Proper diet and proper exercise mean health, and health is a fundamental thing in beauty. Troubles of the stomach and in-
testines, poor circulation and other ills, which reflect on your physique, are helped or prevented by exercise. First of all comes right breathing—which means no tight corsets—breathing from the abdomen. Deep breathing underlines all exercise.
It keeps the chest muscles up to the mark and increases expansion, which in the normal woman should be 3 inches. Every woman should take her setting-up exercises in the morning on rising.

General Exercises for Energy and Carriage.

For the simple energy exercises which should start the day: Deep breathing, with alternate extension of right and left foot, and relaxation. Ditto, with stretching of right and left thigh, and relaxation. Ditto, with stretching of right and left hand, arm and shoulder. Then, deep breathing with chest expansion, abdomen expansion and body stretching. The exercises should be carried out in one, two, three rhythm and count. Then, after a cold bath, should come the regular exercise drill of the day. These general exercises should never be neglected. Specific exercises for fat reduction, if time is lacking, may be carried out later. The "Daily Dozen" exercises of Walter Camp, (Pub. by the Reynolds Publishing Co.) invented for use in the army, are excellent for general use. They lay a muscle corset about the waist, and do wonders for shoulder, back and chest muscles. Use the "Daily Dozen" and you will be able to cut your low-neck dresses as low as you like. They take ten minutes to carry out.

Chinning Exercises—"Chinning" exercises pull up the weight of the body by the arms; by means of a simple, fixed bar within the reach of the arms, and improve the muscles of upper arm, front and back of shoulders and chest. Exercises in bending
the back relieve back fatigue. Abdominal exercises (lying flat on back and rising to a sitting position, keeping legs down, with forward flex, bending body at hips) should not be forgotten. They are very important, as the muscles exercised support
the vital organs. Thigh exercises (rising from squatting position, hands on hips, knees bent to make thigh form right angle with trunk, again squatting, and repeating) are mainly for energy.
But calf and leg muscles benefit materially by any rising-on-the-toes exercise. Further toe-circling, "windmill," bending exercises for suppleness and grace should also be practiced.

What These Exercises Do—These simple exercises and their variations will prevent you from becoming round-shouldered. They will give your backbone a normal curve, and prevent what used to be known as the "debutante slouch." They lend carriage, graceful action and position to the body. They correct a hanging head, relaxed chest, sagging abdomen. Carriage is next in beauty to form, in a way, because it presents form to the best advantage. Special exercises for the development of special muscles you may easily evolve yourself, by varying the general basic forms. Remember that exercise and diet must work together for physical improvement.

KEEP THE FIGURE BEAUTIFUL

Fat-Reducing Exercises—Always take medical advice before entering on a course of special fat reducing exercise. It must not be too severe. To reduce the bust stand straight, hands on hips. Move the elbows back till they meet. Then, stretching
out your arms in front of you, the palms of the hands meeting, raise the arms above the head, again stretch them out, and return, slowly. There are excellent weight reduction exercises among the "Daily Dozen" (Wave, Weave, Crouch, Curl, Crawl, Grasp, etc.). Thigh, toe-circling and back-bending exercises cover hip reduction. Lying full length on the floor, legs close, arms raised above the head, and rolling over completely, ten times in succession, reversing to prevent dizziness, is one of
the most "resultful" hip-reducing exercises you can take.

FAT REDUCTION IN GENERAL

In general women between twenty and thirty may reduce fat more rapidly than those past thirty. Flesh, too, is often put on greatly after childbirth, Usually because of sedentary habits. Avoid them. After forty-five fat reduction by exercise is not without danger. "Honest sweat," not "Turkish bath sweat," cuts down fat. Not the sweat produced by rubber garments, hot bathing, or electric light cabinets, makes you less obese, but that of physical activity. Where heart trouble, kidney or other
strain precludes a woman's taking exercise, muscle manipulation by electricity, electrical massage, is valuable. The true, scientific means that will give the best results in most cases, is the combination of systematic exercises and regulated diet—avoiding fats and carbohydrates as far as possible.

SPORTS AS DEVELOPERS OF PHYSICAL BEAUTY

Sports, followed normally, make for womanly beauty. Swimming, perhaps, comes first. It trains and gives control of every muscle of the body, and control of all the muscles means beauty of carriage. It stimulates torpid livers and inactive kidneys, and prevents constipation. It washes out the rolls of fat from the waist, and develops neck and chest. The auto has unfortunately decreased woman's indulgence in horseback riding. A good horse-woman always carries herself well, and riding gives
special training to the muscles of back and thighs.

Dancing coordinates all the body movements. It helps preserve youth as well as grace, beauty and strength.

Tennis, when not too strenuous, is a splendid form of sport and exercise combined.

Indoor golf, is of course, only a shadow of outdoor golf. It is good, but the latter is far better. Its great advantage is giving exercise in the sun and air.

Hockey, baseball, running, hurdling, jumping, are all sport forms of exercise now open to women, especially the college girl, and all have their value.

Basketball strengthens every part of the body and stimulates the circulation. Bowling is a good anti-fat exercise, and develops the muscles of the trunk and arms.

All winter sports—skating, tobogganing, skiing—make for poise and muscular coordination.

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How to Make and Keep the Figure Beautiful - Diet

CHAPTER II

HOW TO MAKE AND KEEP THE FIGURE BEAUTIFUL

DIET

DIET and exercise are the two main essentials in making and keeping the figure beautiful.
No woman can reduce weight, improve a clumsy and ungainly figure, through exercise alone. Diet comes first. Comparatively few women need fattening. What most need is reduction.

FIRST AID FOR THE THIN

Yet for those whose figure needs building up and filling out, the following facts should be borne in mind.
First, relax mentally. Worry and nervous tension use up calories—the calorie is the unit by which we measure heat and food—very rapidly, and tend to reduce weight below normal.
Secondly, sleep enough and breathe fresh air in plenty.
Third, exercise, to stimulate the appetite and aid all the organs of the body to do their work.
Fourth, eat more of the foods that are high in food value.
Butter, sugar, cream and cream sauce on vegetables, cod-liver oil and olive oil, are all fattening.

FIRST AID FOR THE FAT

Do not, if you are fat and wish to reduce your figure in accord with the normal and ideal body measurements already given, cultivate fallacies. Shun antifat patent medicines and quack "cures." Often they are based on mercury, arsenic or thyroid extract. Shun Epsom salts baths and too many Turkinsh baths. They do harm and no good. The reduction of calories is the real secret of successful fat reduction, and a key to that unit of measurement will enable you to bring your figure within the proper limits, to keep your figure beautiful. The whole point is to know how many calories of food you need per day. Now, normally, a woman who does not "work" in any actual sense of the word, can do with 1,600 to 1,800 calories per day. If she follows some sedentary occupation, 2,000 to 2,200 calories will suffice her. If her
business requires walking, standing or any lighter manual labor, she can run her calorie allowance up to 2,500. If she performs hard physical labor, she is entitled to 2,500 to 3,000 calories. All this is normally speaking. But if you are too fat, if you wish to bring back your figure to its rightful lines, you must know what
your ideal net weight should be in order to cut off the number of calories of food you do not need.

To find the adult net weight, multiply the number of inches you stand in height over 5 ft. without shoes, by 51/2, then add no.

If you are 5 ft. 7 in. tall:

7x5 1/2= 38 1/2 inches
add 110
Resulting net weight 148 1/2 lbs.

PHYSICAL BEAUTY

If you are under five feet, then multiply the number of inches below five feet by 51/2, and subtract from no.
The next thing to do is to multiply your normal weight by the number of calories you need daily per pound. If you weight 230 or 123 pounds, and the rule for your height shows your weight should be 150 pounds, then 150 ought to be the number you should use. This makes the problem simple. If your right weight ought to be 150 pounds, calling for 2,250 calories a day, cut off from 500 calories (about two ounces of fat, a reduction of 4 pounds a month, or 48 pounds a year) to 1,000 calories (about 8 pounds per month, or 96 pounds a year). To gain, reverse the procedure.
Among the kinds of food, note that Proteins, which build tissue and yield energy, may store fat. Proteins are contained in meat, fish, fowl, nuts, milk, cheese, vegetables. Fats (animal fats, oils, chocolate, nuts) are stored by the body as fat. So are Carbohydrates (sugars, starches, including bread, cereals, potatoes, corn, etc.). Vitamines, food substances needed for growth, occur in animal fats, but not in vegetable ones, as also in eggs, milk, butter and meat, vegetable outer skins, grain germs and fruits.

BALANCE IN DIET

These kinds of food must be balanced. If you balance them properly, you can reduce your figure to normal without injuring health or keeping to a monotonous food diet. Proteins you must eat, but neither to excess nor the reverse. And you must eat Vitamines, which abound in nonfattening vegetables and fruits. Do not be afraid of drinking plenty of water. But do not exceed your calorie allowance. Without further theory we advise the woman who wishes to eat and grow thin to avoid the following liquids and foods.

THE "KEEP OFF" SIGN FOR THE STOUT

Shun water during meals—it makes you eat more. Drink all you want between meals. Rich
sodas must be avoided. But coffee in moderation and skim milk are not harmful. Beer, in pre-Amendment days, was sometimes termed "liquid bread." But every fat woman should know that all alcoholic drinks make her fatter if she be fat and thinner if she be thin, thus serving no good purpose. Each bit of food you eat beyond what your
system and your normal weight, figure and calorie requirements demand, is fattening. Candy, pie, cakes, ice cream, whipped cream, candied sweet potatoes, cheese, rice, butter, fresh and white bread, rich meats, thick gravies and nuts are fattening.
"Keep off" fried foods, bacon, ham, pork, and all things made of flour, macaroni, dried beans, puddings, pastries and custards. But there are excellent beefsteak or lean meat, fruit and milk diets, the fruit diet especially being excellent for reduction. An occasional fast day, or certain days of low caloric eating a week are also good. A rapid method to reduce the overplus of calories is a diet
of baked potatoes and a glass of skim milk, three times daily, for a week at a time. Or, instead of fasting altogether for a day, drink a glass of butter-milk every three hours. Again, small helpings of favorite fattening foods, or the dropping of one thing for another, will help attain the end—which is the reduction of your calorie overplus. This is the whole secret of reducing fat and bringing the
figure to its normal physical best, its legitimate beauty of outline, where diet is concerned.

WHAT THE OBESE CAN EAT

A number of excellent books which deal in great detail with the different ways of controlling the calories, of reducing weight and fat, are easily available. We have gone into some details our-selves, although diet and fat reduction is here only
considered in its relation to physical beauty. In the books already mentioned, numerous "sample menus," etc., will be found. Foods you can eat, and still feel you are not betraying your figure, include:
(1) Any meat or game, save pig.
(2) All seafood, including lobster.
(3) Fruit, with the exception of grapes and bananas.
(4) Salads and meat jellies.
(5) Tomatoes, peppers, olives, celery, cucumber, chili sauce and Worcestershire.
(6) All fruit desserts.

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Beauty of the Skin

CHAPTER III

BEAUTY OF SKIN

THE perfect skin goes far to make a woman look beautiful. The late Lillian Russell, who had a perfect complexion, declared that "soap and water" was its secret. But even when there are blackheads, blotches, pimples, a sallow, mothy or greasy skin, and this simple specific fails, there is a cure. There art different types of skin beauty. We have the baby pink and white, transparent skin; there is the "peaches and cream" complexion; or the creamy brunette skin, and many variants. Your business is to make your own particular type of skin and complexion look their best.

FIRST ESSENTIALS

Health again comes first as a good skin requisite, health born of exercise, wholesome food, plenty of soap and water. The hygiene of the skin reflects the general hygiene of the body. Take care of the skin locally. Avoid the direct rays of the sun; avoid exposure to wind, and dirt, lest your skin turn coarse and rough. Water does not injure the skin, nor dry out its natural oils. Use soft water for cleaning face and hands. (If the water you have available is hard, soften with salt, borax or baking soda.) Add bran or a quarter cup of almond meal to make water more soothing to a tender skin. If chapping results from too warm a bath, tepid water, a soft soap, plus olive oil massage or toilet powder will remedy it. Cold water in the morning (it stimulates) and warm water at night is a good washing rule. Never use a cheap, but always a good soap, Castile preferably. Green soap (potash soap) is meant for oily scalps and only irritates dry skins. Though medicated soaps are useful for some skin diseases, they should be used only on a doctor's orders. Thorough, careful drying lends color to the cheeks and increases circulation, and cream and powder are good skin protectors if rightly used and removed. If the skin has been exposed to sun or wind, rub cold cream well into it. Then remove with a damp cloth, and follow by washing in cold water. Vanishing cream, greaseless, is a good face powder foundation, and a skin protector. Always remove cream from the face before going to bed, and in general use it only every alternate day. No complexion stands cream day
in, day out, nor does cream take the place of soap and water. Cream, if not removed, clogs the skin pores. Clogged pores mean blackheads, and black-heads cause other skin affections. Clogged pores, too, are responsible for yellow, sallow complexions.

SKIN FOODS AND POWDER

In general avoid cosmetics. They block up the pores and tend to enlarge them. Of cold creams there are numerous good sorts — vaseline cold cream, olive oil, rose ointment, lemon cream—these all come under the same head. Do not try to make your own skin food; buy a standard preparation. Oily skins shine unless cold cream be used on them under powder. Cologne may be used after a cold-cream cleaning to do away with the greasy condition. Skin foods are applied in facial massage to cleanse and tone up the skin, do away with deposits of fat and wrinkles, and beautify skin quality. Powder protects the skin from the sun, is cooling and absorbs surplus oil. Cosmetic powders are not supposed to act in the guise of plaster-of-Paris masks, to completely hide the features. That many girls entertain this notion, however, is clear to any-one who has walked on the thoroughfares of New York or other large American cities. Powder should always be lightly applied and removed at night. Talcum (French chalk) and starch are the base of all good cosmetic powders. Never use
powders containing lead or bismuth. Scent or its absence is a matter of taste. Do not forget that ordinary toilet powder is meant for the skin of the body and is too coarse for facial use. When it comes to using face powder remember that moderation means charm.

TOILET WATERS AND PERFUMES

The employ of toilet waters and perfumes is an individual matter. A suspicion, a hint of a delicately elusive odor about the skin is very agreeable. But never, never use a cheap toilet water in your bath!
The newer scented bath salts are preferred by many women to toilet water. A tablespoon of some scented bath salt in a tub of warm water, and the faint, charmingly elusive odor which seems to be a specialty of so many attractive women is easily acquired. Perfume is often sinned against in use. A fresh, graceful, attractive girl or woman who reeks of perfume destroys the effect of her other
physical attractions. And the woman who is too highly perfumed always arouses suspicion. Has she applied the perfume so lavishly in order to conceal some less fragrant odor?

SKIN DISEASES AND THEIR CURE

Chapping we have already touched upon. Oily skin, often accompanied by enlarged pores, black-heads and pimples, should be treated before worse ensues. Use a soap made of a cup of oatmeal or boiled oats, a pinch of sulphur, a pinch of powdered
benzoin, and a teaspoonful of Castile soap, shaved fine, mixed, in a small cheesecloth bag. An application in warm water twice a day, should correct the oily tendency.

Sunburn and Freckles.—Four lotions:
1. Two teaspoonfuls of benzoin in pint of cold water. Bathe face night and morning. 2. Mix flour of sulphur with milk, and rub into skin when the mixture has settled a couple of hours. To be applied in small quantities daily.
3. One drachm muriatic acid, to which half-teaspoon of spirits of lavender has been
added.
4. Three drachms carbonate of potassium, two drachms common salt, eight ounces rosewater, a little orange or lavender flower water. Mix and make frequent applications.


Freckles — Two lotions:
1. One ounce lemon juice, one pint rosewater. Apply to skin four, five or six times a day.
2. One drachm muriatic acid, half teaspoonful spirits of lavender, one pint rainwater. Apply carefully to freckles, using camel's-hair brush.

Blackheads.—It is not well to steam out black-heads. It does cleanse the skin and the black-heads have to go. But it also relaxes the skin, and brings forth a crop of early wrinkles. Better is the use of one of the following lotions.
1. One and one-quarter ounces of Green soap, two and one-half drachms alcohol, two and one-half drachms glycerine, one and one-half drachms borax.
2. Two and a half drachms rosewater, two and a half drachms spirits of lavender, two and a half ounces alcohol. After they have been rubbed in, the blackheads may be removed with a watch key. Never risk infection by squeezing out black-heads with the fingers. Once they are removed, close the pores with alcohol.

Pimples and Blotches.—An absolutely clean skin has no pimples. Hence the cleaner your skin, the less likely pimples are to appear. Women are more apt to have pimples than men, but are also more skilled in removing them. "Acne" is a spread of pimples due to improper blood conditions. It usually occurs during puberty, and calls for medical treatment. The use of salves is not recommended and though carbolated vaseline tends to dry pimples up, it increases oily skin conditions. A purely
surface pimple, after an alcohol wipe, may have its head (the little yellow point) pricked. After the pus has been squeezed out, clean with a bit of cotton soaked in alcohol. The use of warm water and Ivory soap with a flesh brush, rinsing with cold water (and after drying, steaming the face every fourth day), should cause pimples to disappear. A grateful and healing lotion, too, may be made by mixing an ounce of tincture of haxnamelis with an equal amount of warm water, and applying frequently.

Tan and Moth Spots.—Too many coats of tan Nature's skin protection against sunburn — coarsen the skin. The so-called "moth spots," brown spots or patches which appear after middle life, are due to this tan pigment. Any lotion which is efficacious for freckles is good for tan. A teaspoonful of milk, to which a little common salt has been added, may be applied at night and washed off in the morning. Another good lotion is made up of two ounces of lemon juice, a half drachm of borax, powdered, one drachm of powdered white sugar. It should stand for several days before using, then be applied as in the preceding case. A mixture of lemon juice and carbonate of magnesia is also valuable in correcting skin discolorations. It should be allowed to remain some time after it has been applied to the skin.

Warts and Moles.—Moth spots are only "bleached" by these lotions, and usually have to be removed by the specialist. A good dermatologist can easily remove the small, brown moles which are often encountered. An old-fashioned remedy, yet one which "works," is: when the mole protrudes enough, to wind a hair tightly around it. If the hair is allowed to remain, the mole gradually detaches itself and falls off. Small moles should be at once removed, lest they grow larger. The same applies to raised, colorless moles. Red moles should never be touched. Cancer often results if an attempt be made to remove them. Warts are usually harmless. They are apt to
disappear of their own accord. In general, your family physician or a skin specialist of standing should be consulted for any serious skin disorder.
Avoid the common run of beauty doctors, and the "home treatment" salves and ointments, for all troubles that go beyond tan, sunburn, freckles, pimples, blackheads and chapping.

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The Eyes

CHAPTER IV

THE FEATURES

AMONG the features, the eyes, "the windows of the soul," might be given first place, though every feature of the face has its share in establishing facial beauty and charm.

THE EYES

The eyes reflect good or bad health conditions as quickly as the rest of the body. Dark circles around the eyes mean weakness or ill-health. Eye-strain visibly betrays weariness. And certain defects show at once. Drooping lids hide the "speaking" quality of the glance. Thin eyelashes and eyebrows make the eyes look strange. Color and "setting," the way the eyes are set in their sockets, cannot be altered, but clearness of health and wealth of expression reflect right diet, sleep, exercise and fresh air.
The eyes should always be washed in tepid water, and dried with a soft towel. Eyestrain is a matter for the oculist, and, in general, an eyewash should be used only on prescription, unless when a cinder is removed. Boracic acid is a popular wash, but oculists declare its constant use harmful.

Eye Exercise.—For puffiness and discoloration exercise the eyeball by rolling it. Also rhythmically tap the skin around the closed eye. The naturally tearful should refrain from weeping, as this dims the eye and robs it of its fire. For eye circulation, lower and raise the upper without moving the lower lid, a number of times, keeping the glance fixed straight ahead. Or look up, down, right and left, ten times in succession, every way. Massage of the circular muscle around the eye is also excellent for strengthening.

Lashes and Brows.—Rubbing with vaseline or olive oil encourages a scant growth of lashes and eyebrows. Pull out all scraggly hairs that are loose, fine-comb lashes and brows regularly, and do not leave powder in them. Remember that to make the eyes look wider and fuller a tiny touch of black in the corners is effective. Do not, however be too free with the eyelash pencil. And do not use a black pencil if your hair is brown, use a brown one. Blonde eyelashes and eyebrows are not beautiful, as a rule, and it is permissible to darken them.

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The Nose

THE NOSE

Even a crooked nose may be straightened by persistent manipulation during childhood, but this will not avail much in later life. If your nose be oily or shiny, bathe occasionally with weak borax water, or dust with rice powder, prepared chalk or magnesium. Do not cultivate a scornful attitude toward life in general. It finds its unbeautiful physical reflex in a habitual elevation of the nostrils in a most disagreeable manner.

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The Ears

THE EARS

Clean outer ears and clean inner ears must be your rule. If the outer ear is clean, the inner ear will not get dirty. And, incidentally, better a trip to the aurist at regular intervals, than a boil in the inner ear. If your ears jut out, wear an earcap at night. A marked improvement will soon result. Too red or too white ears (the extreme colorations usually being due to poor circulation) can be improved by massage. In general, hairdressing will cover most defects of ugly ears. "Cauliflower"
ears, however, call for a "plastic surgeon." He is the only one who can help you.

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Mouth and Teeth

MOUTH AND TEETH

Teeth are an outstanding beauty of women—though, not so, of course, if they stand out too far or too prominently. A good prophylactic brush, not too stiff if your gums are tender, a good dental powder or paste, a daily once-over with dental floss, plus regular periodic visits to the dentist (twice a year at least) should keep your teeth in shape. Sores, save the harmless and passing "fever sore," on mouth and lips, should send you straight to the doctor—a mouth sore may be an indication of a very serious disease. The small "canker" sore, a little local ulcer, will soon dis-
appear if touched several times a day with a nitrate-of-silver pencil.

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The Lips

THE LIPS

The lips should have a natural rose hue—but at times the lipstick has to help out forgetful Nature. Now the lipstick cannot be considered unless in its relation to rouge. Most people use rouge paste badly—and while using rouge is no crime, using it
badly is—because they do so without consideration for their own natural color. What is more ridiculous than to see a woman flush through her rouge, and present on one and the same cheek two distinct shades of color, real and artificial. The rouge used
for the face—it should be applied rather high on the cheeks, and shaded off gradually—should be matched by the shade used on the lips. Hence, let your lipstick match your rouge exactly. Most women need no lipstick—not that this prevents their using one. Harelip is entirely curable by operation.

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The Breath

THE BREATH

A sweet breath from a clean mouth—that is the ideal. Indigestion is in the main responsible for an offensive breath or a coated tongue. Dietary care and regular visits to the dentist should prevent a "baited" breath from developing. No washes
can entirely hide an offensive breath. It betrays itself at the most inauspicious times. It slays the delight of a lover's kiss with its miasmic exhalation.
Powdered charcoal is a good antiseptic, so is a weak Listerine solution. Or, drink half a glass of water in which five drops of tincture of myrrh have been dissolved. If bad breath proceeds from a sour stomach, a spoonful of ordinary baking soda
in water, sipped at intervals, will help. In addition are all the little mint and peppermint tablets, "Life-Savers," etc., and the breath sweeteners. But these
are palliatives. Good health of the stomach and cleanliness of the mouth are the real cure.

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The Chin

THE CHIN

One chin is enough! Double and triple chins certainly do not add to your facial charm. To avoid neck slack and double and triple chins, massage up and down, not crossways, rubbing not too vigorously. Sagging muscles are usually responsible for double chins. These may also be reduced by the use of the chin reducer, together with practicing neck-strengthening exercises. A gentle cold cream working up from the upper lip and mouth corners to the temporary muscles in rotary motion, in massage, followed by inflating the cheeks (with ten further upward strokes at a time, covering the entire cheek) will do away with the thinness which makes such an impression of age.

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