Physical Beauty how to Develop and Preserve It by Florence Courtenay

Sunday, May 08, 2005

The Hair

CHAPTER V

THE HAIR

HEALTH, strength and beauty of hair depends primarily on its nerve vigor and the good circulation of the oily scalp secretion which gives it gloss and luster. Beauty is not so much a matter of color where hair is concerned. If your hair has a fine glow, a rich sheen, is thick and long, it will be beautiful irrespective of its pigmentation. Hair often makes an otherwise plain person beautiful. And practically every woman, if she cares to make the effort, may have beautiful hair.

SOME HAIR HINTS

If you have the least suspicion of a curl in your hair, brushing around rather than straight will bring it out. Do not worry if you shed your hair. It is natural for the hair to shed — and to keep right on growing in again. Only see to it that the ingrowth is equal to the loss by shedding.
No young girl should use a rat. Metal combs should be tabooed. Keep the hairbrush you use for dandruff stiff, the "polishing" brush may be softer.
Use a hair net that matches your own hair color, and do not get too small a one. Remove snarls and tangles in the hair gently, with fingers, before brushing. The three-weekly or monthly shampoo is a good rule. If you wash your hair too often, it will turn dry and brittle and change color.
The hair should never be worn "done up" constantly. This is injurious because every part of the hair should have frequent air and sun baths.
For normal shampoo employ Castile, tar or vegetable soaps, and Green soap for oily hair. A good egg shampoo may be made of an egg, thoroughly beaten, one tablespoon alcohol, four ounces bay rum, a pinch of borax, and four ounces of Castile soap mixed in a pint of hot water, to be used when cool.
Hair that is blonde or ruddy, as well as gray hair, may be washed with Castile soap jelly plus a quarter-teaspoonful of borax. Always comb and brush thoroughly, with finger-tip massage. After shampooing is the best time for scalp massage, hair pulling and skin loosening.

DRY SHAMPOO AND SCALP MASSAGE

The scalp and hair should be cleansed between shampoos. For this purpose the "dry shampoo" is necessary. It is actually a form of scalp massage.
Preparations of orris, corn meal and other dry shampoo powders are not recommended. They stick, and it is hard to get them out of the hair. A vigorous rubbing of the scalp after the hair has been parted, using a small piece of muslin over the tip
of the finger, is best. Hot and cold applications are good, with or without shampoo, especially if the hair is falling. Remember that the hair should not be "hot-air" dried. The hot-air cone used for the purpose in hairdressing establishments destroys
the hair. Human hair should always be dried by hand.
Scalp massage makes the hair grow and prevents many hair troubles. A five-minute finger-tip massage, night and morning, is the one ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure. The electrical massage by a professional (after a shampoo), the violet ray, and the rubber-disk vibrator are all excellent for the hair. They strengthen and stimulate.

HAIR TONICS

Massage is the first and best hair tonic. Though a good scalp lotion may stimulate circulation, massage always does so more directly. In general it will be wise to remember that tonics are meant for specific purposes of cure for hair disorders, rather than for common use. A little refined beef marrow rubbed gently into the hair roots is a good natural tonic (though an old-fashioned one) and together with plenty of fresh air and sunshine, does more for the hair than all the compounded tonics and
"restorers" marketed. Every woman can keep her hair in good condition if she chooses to. If she cannot give it attention in the morning she should do so at night.

HAIR OR HAT?

Which do you value most? If it be your hair then guard against the tight hat. The tight hat is extremely harmful. It cuts off the circulation and keeps away the fresh air the hair needs. Always see that your hat is big enough to be worn with comfort, and that it is sufficiently porous to allow you hair to obtain an airing.

HAIR TROUBLES

Most hair troubles could be prevented in the start by ordinary good care of the hair, and the maintenance of the state of general good health. Of course, various diseases affect the hair: fever dries it out and makes it fall; syphilis and other
sex diseases poison and destroy it. Some skin diseases have the same effect. In general, if you are healthy, broadly speaking, your hair will be healthy too.

Dandruff—What we have to deal with in dandruff is a horny layer cast off by the scalp. This layer thickens, closes the pores, diminishes the hair's oil supply, and prevents the perspiration glands from getting rid of waste. Soon the hair loses tone and color, and is covered with whitish powder. Then it starts to itch and fall. In an advanced state of the disease, the hair falls out, and blood crusts form on the scalp as a result of scratching. Digestive dis orders, toxic elements in the blood or local irritation may cause dandruff, and it is communicable.
Daily care of the scalp, massage and brushing if persisted in when the disorder first appears, are very beneficial. The crude oil massage of the scalp, not the hair, is excellent and often effects a cure. A massage every night, using vaseline or
olive oil, together with repeated shampoos, also helps to do away with dandruff. Although pomades

THE HAIR

in general should be avoided, a pomade with a precipitated sulphur base, mixed with glycerine, rose-water, lanoline, and soap, or a sulphur ointment or cream kills the dandruff germ.
There is an "oily dandruff," also, though the disease is most commonly a dry scalp one. Shampoo with tincture of Green soap should cure this type of the disease in about a week's time. If you have dandruff, observe a regular diet, and stick as much
as possible to milk and fresh fruit.

Falling Hair.—An acid condition of the blood encourages the hair to fall. Correct it and you will have removed the cause of your complaint. The use of the violet ray and the vibrator, which hold down the tendency to an oily scalp, is also valuable for hair treatment in this connection. So, too, are hot and cold applications.

HAIR DISEASES WHICH SHOULD NOT OCCUR

Favus, the development of yellow scalp crusts, accompanied by severe itching, bald spots and a musty odor, is a dirt disease, hence inexcusable in a woman, unless as a result of infection. To remove it the scalp must be soaked in olive oil for a few days, carbolic acid being mixed with it in a weak solution, the hair pulled out of the most infected areas, the crusts removed, and the whole scalp shampooed with an antiseptic soap. Ringworm is usually a gift of those evil things, the "common property" comb and brush, or the patent hair clipper. Rubbing with sulphur oint-
PHYSICAL BEAUTY

with iodine, to precede the application of a cleansing ointment, is the treatment. It is dangerous since it may result in baldness. Head lice (which may be cured by saturating the hair with kerosene or crude petroleum at night, wrapping in a towel to retain fumes, and following by antiseptic soap shampoo) is a most disgusting
trouble, and unless communicated cannot occur except as a result of neglect and uncleanliness. The possibility of contagion constitutes the menace of all three of these diseases.

HAIR THAT GROWETH WHERE IT LISTETH

A luxuriant growth of hair is a blessing and a mark of beauty. But a luxuriant growth of hair where hair should not grow is a curse. Woman's charm suffers from hair growing on the chin, the upper lip (the "bearded" or mustachioed lady is
rightly regarded as a freak), on the sides of the face, on the arms, in the armpits and on the legs. The trouble with using depilatories is that they contain such strong chemicals that while removing the superfluous hair, they injure the skin. Depilation, too, is a kind of shaving, and hence the hair returns more strongly and thickly. The X-ray is also too powerful a medium for removing super-
fluous hair. It not only kills the hair roots, and no hair grows again where it has passed, but it also destroys the subcutaneous glands. It is best, if possible, to avoid these methods of superfluous hair destruction, and use electrolysis. Though sometimes a number of treatments are needed, it will permanently destroy the hair roots, and though slow and expensive (for it must be done by a skilled dermatologist, to avoid scars) it is sure. A bleaching lotion composed of peroxide of hydrogen with an added drop of ammonia is good for diurnal application when retiring. The bleaching makes the unwelcome hairs less noticeable, and gradually prevents their growing. Forget that there are such things as tweezers in this connection! If you do not, you will be surprised how quickly you come into a heritage
of dark, coarse hair. Just because chorus girls have to shave their legs and underarms, is no reason why women in general should turn up their nose at the practice. No young girl or matron wishes to appear in bathing costume with a generous covering of dark hair on her bare legs. Shave your legs, for here the
razor gives the best results! Soaking the legs in warm water, and then rubbing them with pumice stone is a long process. It may "discourage" the hair, but then the hair may take years before it becomes properly discouraged. And the bathing seasons go by quickly.

SHOULD WOMEN DYE?

"No" is the proper and logical answer to this question. Dyeing is a hair crime. In most cases it destroys the light, shade and luster of the hair, and usually — unless so subtly done as to be past detection—it is a hallmark of vulgarity.
On the other hand, if dye you must, do not betray the fact. And there are some quite simple, obvious rules to be observed. If your hair is turning gray, do not try to dye it over into peroxide blonde. Turn it the kind of gray which is most becoming to you. The "pale and furrowed cheek of age," presented with a gay accompaniment of coal-black or golden-blonde hair is grotesque.
There is a disagreeable yellowish hair tinge which results from the fading out of pigment in originally dark hair. It seems legitimate to correct this turning of the hair, since the effect is distinctly unbeautiful. Rinsing with an infusion of sage tea, thoroughly saturating the hair, is in order here, for darkening. Rubbing hair which has a yellowish gray tint in the same way with a solution of bluing
will tend to give it a clear, silvery white tone. In general, dyeing at home is a flat failure. Dyeing at the beauty parlor, on the other hand, exposes the hair to danger of chemical poisoning of the hair roots. Remember, not color, but gloss; not
tint, but tone, is the chief beauty of hair!

BLEACHING

Bleaching is ordinarily open to objections similar to those made with regard to dyeing. Too often it makes the hair look like sun-scorched hay, dead and dry, lightless and shadowless. It also harms the scalp and even the eyes. Peroxide of hydrogen bleaches—none can d«ubt it—but if you use it long enough it makes your hair brittle and crisp. And there is a something about peroxide which usually betrays its use. If you like the "henna" shampoo, well and good; it will do your hair no harm. But if you want to stick to the shade it gives, you will have to shampoo frequently for it quickly wears off. In connection with bleaching and dyeing, it is worth while recalling that white hair, as a rule, looks distinguished after middle age. It lends the woman possessing it an aristocratic appearance.

FALSE HAIR AND TRUE

False hair heats the head, first of all. Bangs, wigs and switches, puffs and curls are at best makeshifts. Yet they are called for at times, and often look like the "real thing" if kept in good shape, and not worn too long. One serious objection against all false hair is the fact that it is a disease carrier. If you wear it, treat it as you would your own true hair. Brush it often, clean
it in gasoline (this, of course, you do not do to your own hair) and dry in the sun and open air. To make it glossy treat it to an occasional brilliantine brush.

THE TRANSFORMATION

The transformation may be called the sublimated "false front," false hair or the wig developed to its highest pinnacle of efficiency. On a foundation of fine net, it is a master wig which is made to suit every individual type and condition of face and
hair. The separate hairs are drawn through the foundation from the obverse side, and knotted under the net. It is light, can be brushed or combed out, its exact "angle of application" can be fixed by means of a few pins, and at the back it merges with the natural hair. It is valuable for the bobbed who are turning long-haired again, and who wish to conceal the clumsy appearance of the new ingrowth. Those who can obtain no permanent wave, whose hair has fallen out as a result of illness, can use it to advantage. Those whose gray hairs are coming in too slowly for a good general effect, yet so swiftly that they attract attention, find it a great help. Many well-dressed women use the present-day transformation the way they do the rouge pad and the lipstick for the complexion—as a legitimate beautifier of the hair.

DRESSING THE HAIR

In general, wear loose hair nets. Do not let your hairpins rust or your bone pins grow dirty. Prefer curlers to hot irons for dressing your hair. Only curl it every second day. Yes, if your hair is too straight, you may use bandoline, but if your hair is wavy by nature, the water wave will answer. Never touch naturally curly hair with tongs or curlers. If you want that "marcelled" look, there are comb set (mounted on springs) which will give it. In general, before you defer to some prevailing style, look at your own head, profile and face. Dress your hair according to your own individuality of feature. Dress it in accordance with its natural habit of growth. Better to look charming and attractive with your hair dressed in a style
nataurally becoming to you, than to conform to some fashionable hairdressing fad that is unbecoming. Also remember that your dress should influence your coiffure to some degree. Both must harmonize.


AS TO BOBBING

Everyone, or nearly everyone "bobs" their hair. Yet not everyone has the right face for bobbing. Hence we are often shocked by the results we see when the hair has been bobbed. Before bobbing see if your face is a bob face at all. Then be sure that
you get the right kind of a bob. Any style of bob-cut will do for the small-featured, round face. More hair on the sides should be the watchword of those with lengthy, oval faces. Though the front hair—if you wish to be quite fashionable— is usually cut long, the "baby face" type of girl or woman can brush hers straight back, a la Pompa-dour. But women whose face beauties are of the classically regular type need a part in the center or on the side. Sometimes the hair keeps growing low on the neck. In this case it is easy to keep it trimmed close to the bob with the scissors. Incidentally, do not have your hair bobbed too short, and do not let your bobbed hair get damp—its curls will at once disappear.

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